Fuel Pump Replacement

Still trying to get the car running. So far changed the fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and now the fuel filter…and damn it, it still doesn’t start!!

But anyways I got the $69 fuel pump from a company called TRE. The pump compares to Walbro 255..and is rated at 255 lph.

Heres the link:

http://treperformance.com/i-656-bmw-…nd-models.html

I have never changed a fuel pump before but heard it wasn’t hard so I did it and wrote a DIY. Feel free to add tips/comments and I will update the DIY..

**********************DISCLAIMER****************** ******
I am not responsible for anything that you do to your car. While this is a very straight forward and detailed DIY, I don’t want to be responsible for any mistakes that one could make. Work on your car at your own risk.
************************************************** *****

This DIY may be too detailed for some members. The reason why I made it so detailed is because there are some members here who are just learning to work on cars and I wanted to eliminate any and all guess work.

Tools Required:

Universal Fuel Pump (I’ve seen Walbros and this one is very similar)
5 New Small Hose Clamps
Flat Head Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
10mm Socket
7mm Socket
Ratchet
Tape
3 Zip Ties
Soldering Iron
Solder
Needle Nose Pliers
Regular Pliers

Ok so before you start this DIY, open the hood and unplug the fuel pump relay. Its located on the left side if you’re facing the car. Then try to start the car and run it until it stalls. I’ve also read to open the gas cap to let pressure out. Good Luck!!

Step 1: Disconnect the battery. For those who still don’t know, its located under the rear seat.

Step 2: Open the trunk and take out the carpet. It will expose the lid on the right.

Step 3: Using the phillips head screwdriver, unscrew the 5 screws.

The black lid will come off. Set it aside with the screws.

TIP FROM stoney85

I’ll just mention that before opening up the fuel tank, clean all the dirt and debris build up so that none can get in the tank, use a paint brush and an air gun, rough it up and blast away the dirt

it was obvious that you performed this going by the photos, but the last thing you want is dirt going into the fuel tank

and for the cost of a new seal, its preventative maintenance to just replace it

You will see this:

Step 4: Using a flathead screw driver or niddle nose plierts, pry the silver clip towards the rear of the car to disconnect the sensor. The clip slides out and it slides out the sensor:

Step 5: Now look at the two hoses that attach to two nipples on the lid.

Remove the clamps with cutters or niddle nose pliers. You may have to replace one or two clamps here. I had to change only one.

Step 6: Use the niddle nose pliers or your hands to pull the hoses off the nipples. After you pull them off, Tape the ends and tuck them away. You can use a sharpy to mark them but they stay on their sides and it isn’t required.

At this point it should look something like this:

Step 7: Now you have to work the lid off the studs that hold the nuts. It’s kind of tricky but keep trying and you will get it..You have to pull the lid straight up..

When the lid comes off, you will see something like this:

Step 8: Keep pulling the whole assembly out. When you have the sand color tube out, reach in there and pinch the bracket from two sides to pull the fuel pump out. Here is a picture of the bracket after i took the pump out. I colored where the brackets are located:

Here’s what the whole assembly looks like:

Step 9: Now that you have the assembly out, you have to disconnect the fuel pump from it. First Take the 10mm socket and the 7 mm socket and undo the two nuts which attach the wires to the pump:

Once you have the nuts off and the wires disconnected, you can put the nuts back on the studs so you don’t lose them. Not required.

Step 10: Take the needle nose pliers or regular pliers and remove the clamp which secures the hose to the pump. Have a new clamp ready to replace the old one during reassembly.

Once the clamp is off, slide the hose off the pump’s nipple.

Step 11: Next undo the clamp which secures the second hose to the black bracket. Have a new one ready to replace old one during reassembly.

Once the clamp is off, slide the second hose off the bracket’s nipple. You will end up with two parts now. They look like this:

AND

^^^In the picture above, the black bracket is already disassembled. In your case it will still be assembled!!!

Step 12: Now is where it gets tricky. If you take a look at the pump assembly which you have just disconnected from the long sand colored tube, you will see that the pump is sitting in another bracket, which connects to the big round bracket with 4 rubber pieces.

To remove the pump with the inside bracket, simply slide the rubber holders down with a screw driver. I didn’t notice that, so I just picked the rubber holders with the screwdriver out of the INSIDE bracket:

If you did that, then its ok. Nothing to worry about. They reinstall easily.

This picture is from assembly but just look at how to slide the rubber pieces:

You will have something like this:

And here just to compare my old and new fuel pump filters…I think I’ll sell the old one on ebay….Mint Condition…Lol.

Step 13: Now you have to extract the fuel pump and its sleeve from the smaller INSIDE bracket. I recommend completely removing the rubber holders and setting them aside with the big OUTSIDE bracket.

Using a flathead screw driver, pick the top of the INSIDE bracket. While using a flathead screwdriver to pry the plastic brackets back, I tapped the bottom of the bump on the cement so it would pop out to the top:

Circled parts is where I had to pry the brackets:

After a little headache, you should have something like this:

Now just work the Metal Fuel Pump out of the last black plastic sleeve. The end product is this:


Step 14: OK!! We’re done taking things apart! Now is to reassembly. Take the new fuel pump and carefully install the black rubber sleeve which came with the bump. Flush fit!

Step 15: Now reinstall the plastic sleeve onto the new fuel pump.


Step 16: Take the smaller INSIDE bracket and reinstall the assembly from the previous STEP into it:

Also take the 4 rubber holders and reinstall them as well on to the smaller INSIDE bracket. Not the larger OUTSIDE one!! Make sure to install them so that the rubber edges are flush with the plastic bracket.

Step 17: Now take the assembly from the previous step and reinstall that into the bigger OUTSIDE bracket. Align the rubber holders with their “holes” and slide them in. Lol.

You will now have something like this:

Great job, you’re doing awesome!!

NOTE: The thinner stud on the original fuel pump is + and the thicker one is –

Better remember that or you will have to re solder. I had to…

Step 18: Now is time for soldering iron:

The lighter brown wire is + and the darker is -. Take the soldering iron and hold it to the old welds until they melt. While you’re melting the old welds, SLIGHTLY pull on the wires from the other side to extract them.

One is done:

Two is done:

You can see the three wires on the pictures and it looks like they connect to where you have to solder but they don’t. You will see what I’m talking about when you do this.

Step 19: Now take the connector that came with the new fuel pump. It will have two wires, red and black. Obviously red is +, black is -.

Place the new wires in the place of the old wires (brown ones). There will be two holes for them in the prongs. Solder them.

The MIDDLE prong is +, and the left one is -. The one on the right is not used.

THIS IS WRONG: (red and black need to be switched places)

THIS IS RIGHT:

^^^That looks like $H!t so it right the first time and there will not be an issue!!!

Step 20: Now that your connector (harness) is attached to the terminals, take 3 zip ties and attach the wires to the same hose that plugs into your fuel pump and NOT into the bracket:

Step 21: Plug the connector plug into the new fuel pump.


Step 22: Now install a new clamp on the hose which connects to the bigger OUTSIDE bracket. Slide the hose onto the nipple, slide the clamp over the nipple and tighten it to secure it:

Step 23: Install a new clamp on the hose which goes to the fuel pump and slide the hose onto the nipple. Slide the clamp over the nipple and tighten it to secure it.

Step 24: Now take the fuel filter (recommended to use new set of rubber gloves) and install it onto the fuel pump:

You are now done reassembling the assembly. Time to reinstall the assembly back into the fuel cell.

Step 25: Take the whole assembly and rest it in the trunk. The fuel pump goes in first. Insert it into the fuel tank and attach it to the bracket:

Check to make sure that it is secured and clipped in place.
Step 26: Once the pump is reinstalled into the fuel cell bracket, you have to insert the long sand colored tube into the tank. This is what worked for me:

Step 27: Now align the lid and slide it down on the 8 studs. Secure it with the nuts. I tightened them in the same pattern that applies for wheels. Cress-cross.

I DIDN’T get the new seal. I don’t know one if new one is required or not… Just wipe the area of the seal with some oil and tighten them down good, but not to break the studs!!!

Step 28: Reinstall the hoses and the new clamps in their place and tighten them securely.

Step 29: Reconnect the plug back in its place:

Now just reinstall the lid and reconnect the battery. If you have taken the Fuel pump relay out, reinstall it.

The End!

Original by acetforums.bimmerforums.com

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One response to “Fuel Pump Replacement

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